Hi Everyone,
Who would think that a running jacket could incorporate aspects of the Japanese pattern cutting methods that I love?
Well, one of my students from my 'outside' teaching at Ravensbourne, (as opposed to the one to one classes), has achieved just that in the last activewear project by designing her pattern to include a 'disapperaring' hood, with no seam to attach it to the body of the jacket. Really great that second year students should attempt and succeed with this so well. I can't give you a photo I'm afraid, for obvious reasons, but here are some similar things using that technique from one of the brilliant 'Pattern Magic' books by Tomoko Nakamichi:
The hood transmutes into the jacket body, in the same way that the collar and the ties do here.
For the same 'activewear' project, I made a sample of an integral 'backpack' for a jacket as a bit of possible inspiration for the students. This uses the Japanese 'Otoshiana' technique - you can see how it works. All you have to do is make the shape you want at first in paper, (or at least an approximation), and then transfer this into a pattern as shown, then cut out the pieces in calico with a seam allowance, sew together the pieces and hey presto - there you have it! Here are the photos:
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| Make your shape in stiff paper |
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| Mark and number the sections |
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| Cut apart and press flat on a table |
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| Trace around the shape on pattern paper and add 1cm seam allowance |
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| Sew up the pieces, and place where the shape is wanted on the garment, (i.e. jacket back), and continue the seam lines to the edge of the pattern piece. |
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| Side view |
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Then the shape is an integral part of the garment, and facings can be added, or the fabric can be double layered as you want.
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You can learn these techniques with me at my home studio -just email sewing@bobbiesroom.co.uk, atelierclasses1@gmail.com, or phone 07941 619992 for prices and details.
